The Tide of Time
Before the enclosure dam, the Afsluitdijk was constructed in 1932 between the Provinces of North Holland and Friesland, the fishing villages along the open sea suffered many a flood and storm tide, leaving many of them in a relentless state of poverty and despair.
Over the years the Enclosure Dam has transformed the salty waters of the Zuider Zee and changed it into the fresh water we now know as the IJsselmeer. While nature has regained its balance, the IJsselmeer has become a great place for water-sports and sight-seeing; though sailors; be warned..." from time to time the spirit of the old sea returns within minutes, enraged and thirsty with revenge. Meanwhile, the villages that dwell on the shores of this man-made lake are engraved with the stories of their ancestors who bore the curse of flood, death and poverty. Today, the ‘golden circle’ is the name given to the towns and villages around the IJsselmeer, which tells the true story of the Dutch and the sea.
A Bit of History...
Amsterdam was the most important port in Europe and the financial and commercial centre of the world in the 17th century Golden Age. All the great vessels that ventured off to the Far East returned to the port of Amsterdam, at that time accessible via the Zuider Zee, to deposit their goods. The inexpensive raw materials that returned from Indonesia such as tobacco, coffee and spices were further processed in the Netherlands, which created an abundance of new trades, jobs and riches. The success of the Dutch fleet, marked by the founding of the United East Indian Company in 1602, was an important source for the authority and power of the Dutch Empire during this time. Traces of this company can still be found today all along the cities and villages of the IJsselmeer known as the ‘Golden Circle’.
Historical Jouney
A unique way to discover this Dutch heritage is through the historical triangle: Enkhuizen, Medemblik, and Hoorn. Take a ride on the museum steam train from Hoorn to Medemblik where the ferry awaits to take you to the Zuiderzeemuseum in Enkhuizen. This is a journey back in time when the Netherlands was a country of sailors and voyagers. After a 65-minute ride, the train reaches its destination at Medemblik station, a minuscule village on the IJsselmeer. The Zuiderzee museum is actually two museums, the indoor museum and open-air museum. While the inside museum is clearly well worth a visit, the outside museum is an absolute MUST!
A Day in the Life of 1905
The open-air museum is a patchwork of different villages along the Zuiderzee at the turn of the 19th century. The concept is at first a little puzzling given that actual houses were transported in their entirety or brick-by-brick to form life-like villages such as Urk, Monnickendam, Zoutkamp, Hoorn, Zaandam and many more. This means that 130 or so dwellings that make up the outside museum are one hundred percent real houses, dating as far back as 1880. What’s more, the houses are inhabited by actual people from the period 1880 to 1932. This may sound a little impossible at first, and of course, it is, but the Zuiderzee museum trains its volunteers to play the part of villagers from the time that the IJsselmeer was still a sea.
You can taste the smoked herring, learn how to make rope, share a cup of tea with the ‘locals’, buy old-fashioned sweets and pastries in the bakery and enjoy many more surprises. The museum is also a real treat for children and organises many activities for them such as treasure hunts and old fashioned games, especially during the school holidays. After an inspiring afternoon in the quirkiest village in the Netherlands, it is time to sit back and enjoy the evening in Enkhuizen
A good tip for accommodation is .....(coming soon)
An Unexpected Find....
After walking up the main street and back again, realising that Stavoren is not the most up-beat place, we stumble across an old farm named "De Koebrug", with a sign on the door reading "Whiskey Bar and Scotch Corner". Our curiosity and need for some adventure lead the way inside. Immediately, we take a liking to the place. It is warm, welcoming and cosy (gezellig) and ...stocked with 400 of the finest Scottish Malt Whiskey’s! At € 62.50 per person, you can enjoy a four-course ‘Whiskey Dinner’ with Scottish recipes, prepared with Friesian ingredients and a small glass of malt, specially selected to accompany each dish.
Each Village Has a Story
While Stavoren itself is not the most exciting place to spend an entire day, it is a cute village nonetheless and for the real ‘thrill’ seekers, there are many alternatives in the area. In fact, you can combine the ‘Whiskey Dinner’ with any number of daytime activities in neighbouring villages such as Hindeloopen, Workum or Sneek. Alternatively, you can rent a sailing boat for the day and enjoy the Ijsselmeer.
Overall, the IJsselmeer and its surrounding fishing villages is a rich area of Dutch heritage and history. Each small village has its own story to tell and the friendly locals will be more than happy to share their tales with you. If you haven’t been here yet, be sure to plan in a trip to the ‘golden circle’ this summer.
Useful addresses and links
Zuiderzee Museum
Tours can be arranged in English, French, Spanish, Italian and German.
Stoomtram
Check the website for departure to and from Hoorn, or call 0229-214 862.
www.stroomtram.nl
Restaurant and Whiskey Bar De Koebrug
Schans 31, 8715 JR Stavoren
Ferry
Check the website for departure times to and from Stavoren, or call 0228-3265 667.
www.veerboot.info/
Boat rental