Leiden is a very charming university town, halfway between Amsterdam and The Hague. It’s a very lively place, full of cafe’s and student bookshops with a good nightlife and restaurants.

Leiden’s history goes back to the year 1200 and lies on a branch of the Rhine in the bulb growing region between The Hague and Haarlem. The town grew at the foot of a fortified castle, de Burcht, erected in the 9^th century on a mound. Its prosperity grew because of its location on the Oude Rijn, which was then the main branch of the river, but has now changed course towards Rotterdam. Political developments can be seen between 1200-1300 when the "Gravensteen", a residence of the Counts of Holland was built. It later became a prison and is now part of the University complex. The towns’ earliest period of prosperity was in the 14th century when it was a centre for cloth weaving (see the Lakenhal Museum). By 1500, Leiden’s impressive churches were supported by a population of some 10,000 persons, about the same number as Amsterdam and Haarlem.

The Spanish laid siege to the city during 1573-74. More than half the population died of sickness and starvation but refused to surrender. The Dutch Navy was finally able to free them in 1574 after breaking down dike after dike to reach them. In 1575, William the Silent granted Leiden the right to establish the first University in the Netherlands in recognition of their tremendous resistance and suffering. Ten years later, prosperity returned aided by the immigrants from Belgium who brought skills as well as manpower to supplement the greatly depleted workforce. They were textile workers, beer brewers and exporters of parchment, books, cheese and pewter.

During the 1500’s, early 1600’s, Leiden was the birthplace or workplace for many famous men. Rembrandt was born here in 1606, as were the painters Jan van Goyen in 1596, Gerrit Dout 1613, Jan Steen 1625 and Gabriel Metsu in 1629. Scholars in Leiden included Hugo Grotius, stateman Rene Descartes and theologian John Robinson who was pastor to the Pilgrims.

Leiden became a refuge in the 16^th and 17^th century to numerous Flemish and French as well as English Protestants, who fled their own countries because of religious persecution. In 1609 a hundred or so English protestants arrived via Amsterdam, led by their spiritual leader John Robinson (1575-1625). Former farmers, they had to adapt themselves to various new handicrafts trades. A printing press published religious works which were exported to England and Scotland. Their stay became difficult and the Puritans decided to leave Leiden and go to America. Sailing from Delftshaven on the Speedwell they reached England and embarked on the Mayflower in Plymouth. The 102 emigrants of which 41 were Puritans or Pilgrim Fathers, landed in December 1620 on the south-east coast of present day Boston and founded Plymouth Colony, the first settlement established in New England. The Pilgrims Archive museum is at Vliet 43, Tel: 071-516 5355. Open Tues-Sat 1200-1600, free admission.

The first Dutch tulips were brought to Leiden four hundred years ago by the botanist Clusius and in the spring the blooming bulb fields is one magnificent display of colour. The Bulb Region’s beating heart is the Keukenhof, the spring garden of Europe. In this 32-hectare park (320,000 m2), you are greeted by no fewer than 6 million tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and other bulbous flowers. Other areas in the bulb growing region include: Hillegom, Katwijk, Leiderdorp, Lisse, Noordwijk and Noordwijkerhout. Oegstgeest, Rijnsburg, Sassenheim, Valkenburg, Voorhout, Warmond and Zoeterwoude.